BLOOME

Notes on the first Riga Biennial of Contemporary Art by Egor Buimister

Notes on the first Riga Biennial of Contemporary Art

These fragments I have shored against my ruins

Thomas Stearns Eliot, “The Waste Land”

…Imagine that the apocalypse took the form of a cocktail party

David Foster Wallace, “Big Red Son”

“Book of Nineteen Nocturnes” by Jim Holyoak

In the age of mechanical reproduction and almost total craftsmanship capitulation to concept, or, speaking the words of T.S. Eliot, “Shape without form / gesture without motion”, any example of time-consuming, skill and patience-demanding work of art should be regarded as a rare gem and thus carefully looked upon.

Aspiring 18 year old Turkish fashion designer Dilan Gerede Erkaya, who lives between Bali and Istanbul, sat down recently with Bloome’s Editorial Assistant and Istanbul correspondent Tessa Mack to talk about his brand Diablo and it’s upcoming capsule collection of high fashion jumpsuits.

The Merchant Archive AW18 collection presentation was held at the Averard Hotel in Lancaster Gate this Tuesday. The fashion brand renowned for bold use of colour and clean lines did not disappoint with their new collection featuring oranges, greens as well as some more neutral browns and pinks.

Monday of London Fashion Week saw the presentation of Ilaria Lepore’s haunting AW18 collection take centre stage at Freemason’s Hall. Androgyny was at the heart of this new collection as the models take on genderless appearances that create a provocative vision.

The bodies of the models become statements made by the designer with some being as literal as writing across their chests. The work created by Ilaria Lepore is captivating not only in its appearance but also in the concept that runs behind it.

Sunday of London Fashion Week began with a presentation from Kristel Kuslapuu. Her AW18 collection draws inspiration from cliches and irony whilst she describes her work as trashy and queer. Her pieces consist mainly of chunky knitwear with bright colours and absurd patterns that defy any sense of gender; Kristel says that “putting a gender to a garment feels like a waste of energy”. This is a refreshing and exciting viewpoint to have at London Fashion Week as so much of the catwalks and presentations seem to rely heavily on gender stereotypes. Kristel Kuslapuu clearly has an interesting perspective to bring to the fashion industry.

Saturday of London Fashion Week began with a presentation from Cassey Gan. The presentation attracted lots of photographers and general public admiring the bold colours and interesting prints of this season’s designs. Unique shapes and mesmerising patterns were at the forefront of Cassey Gan’s AW18 collection on display.

Friday of London Fashion Week kicked off with Xu Zhi’s presentation show at Swiss Church Soho. The AW18 collection of London-based fashion designer, Xuzhi Chen, is inspired by Dante Gabriel Rossetti’s obsession with Jane Morris, one of the most recognisable faces in art history. The collection also celebrates Gerhard Richter’s 85th birthday.

A dream of perceptions & dimensions

The curiosity that inspired my work started with the notion of dreaming. I have asked myself many questions on the authenticity of our world: How can we be sure that the world we are living in is real? How can we know that everything we perceive is not just an illusion?

The way we interpret our environment combines different factors requiring collaboration between our eyes and our brain. When we see an object, the light that reflects off of it is absorbed into our eyes and transformed into a message. This message is delivered to our brain and interpreted in order for us to understand what we see. But what if there was a problem with our visual system? What if there was an error in the process? Perhaps we visualize things completely differently than they really are.

Tommy Xin

Intimacy Statement

As the art historian Anne Helmreich once said, “Exhibitions have long been a key strategy for the display of artistic production to the public to facilitate article commentary and commodity consumption as well as to construct artistic reputation.” This article questions the body, the mind, their influence on art and the importance of intimacy throughout the different pieces reviewed.

The cheerful celebration of Christmas is right around the corner, which means many festivities are happening. The Christmas season is all about spending time with family, decorating the entire house inside and out, without forgetting to give your tree an annual jolly makeover. The holidays are also about giving back to others, whether by helping out with baking Christmas cookies and goodies, preparing the big family dinner, or shopping for gifts for friends and relatives. But what would be this festive season without music?

Halloween is a spooky celebration that happens every year on October 31st in a number of countries. It is a laid back, candy-filled holiday. Trying to win “Scariest Costume" or "Funniest Costume" at parties, going trick-or-treating and pumpkin carving are just a few of the many activities practiced. Halloween is a carefree celebration of everything horror related. It marks the beginning of the Autumn holiday season, when the weather starts to cool down, and the leaves are turning into brilliant muted rainbows.

This Halloween-themed four-piece photo series titled “True Horror” doesn’t explore witches, ghosts, or goblins. Rather, it depicts the true horrors of the world and the stark contrasts between certain horrors of the United States versus those of other countries. In some parts of the world, one faces horrors such as the Rohingya Muslim rcrisis or the Somalia truck bombing. In otherplaces, the horrors people face are generated by power and money hungry men like Donald Trump and Harvey Weinstein.

Monday/Tuesday - Ethiopia - After Midnight: I mean, technically, I'm in the airport, but I'm still in Ethiopia. I'm sitting next to my mother and across from strangers that I'll probably never see again. The cold has refused to leave since we boarded the first plane here from Abuja, Nigeria sometime in the afternoon. I don't know if we're ahead or behind timewise, but I do know I can hear all the planes and people around me. We're going to be here waiting for five hours in transit. I've grown to hate that word - waiting - it's become overused in the past year of my life. Hopefully after I get my diploma I won't have to keep on waiting for much longer.

Austrailian band Methyl Ethel performance @ Shackewell Arms 15/08/17 in London

M E T H Y L E T H E L

Their vibe on such small stage at the Shack in East London, Dalston had such vibrant energy - the boys did well as a whole - the crowd was nicely moving their bodies along to the shoegazey/ kinda poppy and indie sounds building up to a new sound as there is - Methyl Ethel -

The visual identity of Crimson Rose O'Shea's textile and print as her own luxurious language

The Bread Bin & The Biscuit Tin is not your average kitchen storage. An artzine stuffed with weird and wonderful creations from some of the best up and coming lowbrow artists today. There is something for everyone in this first issue, from haunted arcade machines to depictions of evil.

The idea to create this project sprang up to my mind naturally as I wanted to give our readers an insight into the fashion industry and foster on the way it interacts with the contemporary world. By collaborating with many young fashion insiders around the world on showcasing global fashion events I aspire to deliver a vivid portrayal of the fashion society, highlight its diversity and cultural backgrounds, and create a platform for fruitful communication among everybody who believe in the goodwill of fashion.

- Fashion and Arts director Olga Korovina.

London's fashion is known to be of an ostentatious matter. One of the few cities where despite how good one thinks they look, there will always be a better dressed figure approaching within the block's walk.

Here's what BLOOME senior photographer Mona Cordes says anout her experience at LFW:

Welcome to the first edition of FASHION WEEK DIARIES by BLOOME!

We are starting off with some street style from Mercedes-Benz Kyiv Fashion Days SS'18 captured by Alice Ronkovich this September in the heart of Kyiv - fashion capital of Eastern Europe. These pictures retain the sense of authentic approach to fashion in Ukraine and make up a good front-page of our diaries!

- Fashion and Arts director Olga Korovina.

Autumn/Winter 17/18 trends have been beautifully outlined once again at London Fashion Week Festival. This season’s catwalk was all about that seventies trend, suiting and dazzle! Get inspired by our selection of looks from the runway taken by by James Greenhalgh and Max Herridge.

Have a warm and stylish autumn!

The Polimoda Fashion Show for 2017 took place on June 15th on the occasion of the 92nd edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo.
Villa Favard, the opulent 19th-century building located along the Arno river in the heart of Florence and headquarters of Polimoda, hosted the best menswear and womenswear collections by final year students of the undergraduate course in Fashion Design.

Advice for How to Harness Free Reign of Your Work

When two mediums such as art and fashion collide, it naturally triggers a sequence of questions. Upon pursuing an understanding of its ambiguous borders, BLOOME's fashion & arts editor Olga Korovina delves under the surface of fashion illustrator Alina Zamanova, to explore her creative pursuits as an artist.

Music editor Ruven Samaraweera commemorates the reopening of BLOOME with the magazine's very first playlist series, with a new addition to be released on the 1st of every month.

Our september playlisy is paired with evocative pastel collages by Lucilla Bellini, and visually striking neon photography by Yiling Zhao.

Tash Sultana, Australian multi instrumentalist, performed in London at Scala by Kings Cross.
I went and got to take pictures. It was amazing to see such young musician of only 22 years old all by herself perform a sold out venue.
The fully lively show started with the words: ‘Everyone is fucking welcome here - no matter of what gender - if gay, trans or else - I hope you'll enjoy this evening’.
She's a real character and seems very true to herself & her music, while playing all instruments possible, she didn't just use her energy on playing - her body and face were expressing her fully being in her element.
Would love to see her again for very sure.
Brilliant vibes.

Face it, you're too old to trick or treat (and too young to die). If you're in this "in between" stage like me, it's likely your plans for Halloween include watching a movie. So, to make the inevitable "which movie do I watch" crisis a little bit easier, here's a list of my favourite horror movies (in no particular order) to get you in the mood for Halloween.

In the middle of preparation for a Paris Fashion week runway show, Ukrainian fashion creator Julie Paskal managed to squeeze in some time to chat with BLOOME journalist Olga Korovina. Her brand PASKAL is known for minimalism, and contemporary elements of design inspired by Julie's background in architecture and engineering.

Glissments progressifs du plaisir
(Alain Robbe-Grillet)

Nigerian-based poet Zara Medugu shares with us words to celebrate the beauty of nature and life through her poem "Notes from the Fisherman's Journal".

BLOOME journalist Olga Korovina had the chance to talk to fashion-maker John William, who throughout the years has contributed and collaborated with Dazed and Confused, VICE, i-D, Nylon, Paper, and Bullet magazine. He began his career in fashion, and has had his work exhibited globally including a 2011 show curated by photographer Rankin and a 2014 collaboration with the Museum of London. John's experience in the industry spans marketing, consultancy, trend forecasting and creative direction, and he teaches across a number of BA courses at LCF. He currently works as a stylist and artist and his work often includes props and custom pieces of his own design.

(image found here)

Senior Journalist Jessica Nauta constructs a playlist of twelve songs inspired by the 80s throwback Netflix series Stranger Things.

Teen photographer Edwin Joscan returns with his latest visual piece "Deadly Waters" where he envisions the summertime perils that come with the natural wonders of Puerto Rico landscapes through photography.

BLOOME senior journalist Maia Medel fabricates a visual diary of stunning portraits and words of truth that capture the spirit of North American youth.

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The first entry for "BLOOMEcore's" album article lineup, where music editor and writer Ruven Samaraweera selects music he feels embodies the ideals expressed through BLOOME magazine in its writings. Similar lineups will be conducted for other various mediums of art.

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Our film editor and writer Sophia Macapagal constructs a list of her ten favourite movies so far, that she recommends all BLOOME fans enjoy for themselves.

A haste series of photographs found within the pages of Teenage Smokers, Teenage Kissers, and Wayward Cognitions captured by the iconic photographer Ed Templeton.

A poem entailing heavy sentiments "Moment of Elevation" written by Ukranian-based writer and Fashion Arts enthusiast Olga Korovina

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Jessica Nauta whips together a dreamy playlist inspired by Sofia Coppola's film adaptation of Jeffrey Eugenides' novel The Virgin Suicides.

Seventeen-year-old Edwin Jocsán immerses us into his spectacle "A Lost Flight to Paradise" where he documents the landscapes of Aguadilla, Puerto Rico. Set in an abandoned airplane, Jocsán intends to capture the beauty of the island through depicting its various settings and locations.

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FILM ANALYSIS // SWISS ARMY MAN

(image via tumblr)

Nigerian poet Chisom Irechukwu shares her series of writing inspired by sisterhood, through poems of feminine notability.

Poet and writer Jess Nauta fabricates the poem "Alex" inspired by French street artist JR, whose work was exhibited in Toronto's annual art festival Nuit Blanche.

VISUAL DIARY

Toronto-based photographer and visual artist Frances Sousa gives us a preview of her artwork, propped with coffee, cigarettes, flowers, and evening prayers. Frances delivers artwork of poetic,graceful elegance, establishing her own unique style by combining collage, sculpture, embroidery, paint and photography.

VISUAL DIARY

London-based artists Daji R and Mona Cordes take the viewer on a whimsical stroll along brick lane, exploring passages 'round Shoreditch, brimming with plants and hidden little houses. Mona captures a youthful, in-the-moment vision of spontaneous adventure.

(image found here)

THE NEON DEMON // FILM REVIEW

BEHIND THE BEAUTY OF UNLIKE COMPLEXIONS

View Kuphirun shares her opinions on fashion and captures the beauty of contrasting skin.

//IMAGE VIA BB DAKOTA//

I am forgetting bits and pieces of my past
The pieces I've tried to frantically to collect in mason jars
Jars I've since knocked over
Hurricane after Hurricane
We were prone to them
Where we lived was prone to them
But now I deal with only sunshine

A photo series by Domonique Harris, wholly inspired by the song Breezeblocks by Alt-J and the children's book Where the Wild Things Are.

#Lightsdimminhighbeamin

WIND KUPHIRUN CAPTURES BANGKOK'S NIGTHLIFE

The BLOOME team had a chance to meet up with Toronto based artist Amanda Jiang, a meeting in which we discussed the woes of the Toronto art scene, Amanda's opinions on the internet's lasting influence on Generation Z, and her own personal connection to the art world.

(image via Mr Cheryl)

I was told I was a seed
That burying me would allow me to flourish
That I could not be truly destroyed
Unless through death
But I feel weaker now
Than I have

Japan's fashion elite, firstly inaugurated in Europe as "Hiroshima chic" or "ragged chic" representatives, have turned the notion of fashion as structured, sexy and glamorous on its head. Their vision of women, and also men, as independent, intelligent, liberated artisans has elevated their status to that of fashion legends. The sensation caused by Rei Kawakubo's Paris debut in 1981 with fellow Japanese Yohji Yamamoto, where they were presenting a fierce rebuttal to the body-conscious, sexy, silhouettes of the 1980s, has transfixed and shocked the experts, however, within a very short period of time, this shock turned to admiration.

BLOOME

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Aspiring 18 year old Turkish fashion designer Dilan Gerede Erkaya, who lives between Bali and Istanbul, sat down recently with Bloome’s Editorial Assistant and Istanbul correspondent Tessa Mack to talk about his brand Diablo and it’s upcoming capsule collection of high fashion jumpsuits.

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Intimacy Statement

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M E T H Y L E T H E L

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The visual identity of Crimson Rose O'Shea's textile and print as her own luxurious language

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The Bread Bin & The Biscuit Tin is not your average kitchen storage. An artzine stuffed with weird and wonderful creations from some of the best up and coming lowbrow artists today. There is something for everyone in this first issue, from haunted arcade machines to depictions of evil.

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Welcome to the first edition of FASHION WEEK DIARIES by BLOOME!

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Advice for How to Harness Free Reign of Your Work

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#Lightsdimminhighbeamin

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