japanese notion of fashion


Japan's fashion elite, firstly inaugurated in Europe as "Hiroshima chic" or "ragged chic" representatives, have turned the notion of fashion as structured, sexy and glamorous on its head. Their vision of women, and also men, as independent, intelligent, liberated artisans has elevated their status to that of fashion legends. The sensation caused by Rei Kawakubo's Paris debut in 1981 with fellow Japanese Yohji Yamamoto, where they were presenting a fierce rebuttal to the body-conscious, sexy, silhouettes of the 1980s,  has transfixed and shocked the experts, however, within a very short period of time, this shock turned to admiration.


Comme des Garçons F/W 2012-2013
lookbook illustration
Presenting garments influenced by little more than the cloth, thread, structure and ingenuity of their own creation, Kawakubo sought to release fashion from its endless cycle of historical references, and to create a wardrobe striking and unconstrained in the way they moved.



Comme des Garçons F/W 2012-2013
lookbook illustration




Comme des Garcons, under her direction, has since become a groundbreaking, boundary-pushing brand, showcasing its collections on locations that included Helsinki, Singapore and Kyiv in the form of  "guerrilla" stores.





 Continuing the spirit of Comme des Garcons in conceptualizing and deconstructing traditional constructs, Junya Watanabe, who has joined the brand in 1984, gives his clothes an irregularity through tucking, pleating and tying.




      


COMME DES GARCONS AND JUNYA WATANABE PIECES



The begetter of  "couture déstructuré" Kenzo Takada, the "Picasso of fashion" Issey Miyake, radical and extreme Rei Kawakubo alongside with her eminent protégés, such as award-winning Jun Takahashi and traditional, and at the same time ultra-modern JunYa Watanabe, legendary  Yohji Yamamoto and his daughter Limi Feu, as well as the alternative Japanese  brands, such as Kolor by Junichi Abe and Individual Sentiments by Yoko Ito...  Their dynamic work, which is caracterized by distinctive silhouettes, deconstruction and reshaping of traditional garments with an imaginative flair, and, of course, their innovative techniques of making, have cemented the country's reputation for avant-garde designs and coined a distinguishing philosophy of fashion as a room for expression and deliberation.
  
 TEXTUAL AND VISUAL CONTENT BY OLGA KOROVINA


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